Crete was the first stop on our island hopping adventures. It is the biggest of the islands and trying to squeeze what some people call a “separate” country in three days was not easy, but we did it. We spent most of our time in the coastal towns of Chania (the C is silent and you have to put a little throat on that H), Rethymno and Heraklion (pronounced Iraklio). There must be some Greek rules where sometimes you say the H and sometimes you just don’t.
Chania was a charming beach town with an Old Town port filled with cute alleyways, shops and of course swordfish heads on tables next to you at lunch. We like to joke and called Chania the Watertown of Crete, because Sara D said she would have been happy going back there, it had everything.
On our way or more or less out of the way to the next town of Rethymno, we drove to ElaFonissi Beach. “The people” say it’s one of the best. What they didn’t tell you, is that you are literally putting yours and your friends lives in your hand driving over the mountains, through little villages and then down again to get there. The drive made the drive to Stinson seem like the straightest drive around. I have to admit it was worth it. The water was so blue and you could walk around to different tide pools to cool off. While we were there, there was a sand storm that was like a free whole body scrub. After a while of getting pelted, we decided to pack up and make the trek back up and over the mountain to Rethymno.
In Rethymno, we found ourselves in another cute village with sunsets you only see in the movies (Although I hear that even better ones are to come). After some more sights, shops and sounds we settled in for yet another Marathon Dinner. I know that in the US we totally rush through everything, but a simple dinner of Greek Salad and Chicken can last until 11:30 at night. We started to notice a trend that when you ask for the check, they bring you something “on the house” instead. Typically it’s some Raki (alcohol made from grapes native to Crete) and either dessert or watermelon. At first we’d never get the watermelon and I wondered if my reputation of dessert queen preceded me all the way over here in Greece. Luckily soon enough we were given the watermelon treatment. I can’t lie; I stopped drinking the raki after the first dinner. To me it was like pure gasoline down my throat, but didn’t want to look ungrateful so sometimes, we’d pour a little into a water glass when the waiter wasn’t looking. I don’t think I have to tell you how amazing the food is, but one more funny thing about the restaurants before I move on to talking about our travels to the last Cretan city of Heraklion.
In the major port cities there are what feel like hundreds of restaurants. The hosts of the outdoor tavernas will constantly try and grab your attention or get you to eat at their spot versus the spot right next to them selling the same exact food. Initially I just thought, cool I’m getting hellos and getting to practice my best “Kalíspera”. I soon realized that while maybe saying “good evening” to the obvious touristas was on their to do list for the day, it was more about getting us to come and sit down. As the days in Crete were coming to an end, I realized more and more that I was avoiding making eye contact with them kinda like I avoid the perfume ladies at Nordstrom. If I don’t make eye contact they won’t ask, “You hungry?” Umm yeah always, but that’s beside the point!
Ok like I said back to the trip. Before making our way to our last port city of Heraklion, we wanted to stop in at an Olive Oil Factory. We decided on the Paraschakis Family Olive Oil Factory. Boy, were we in for a treat. Not only was this completely sustainable “vineyard” adorable with machines dating back to the days of using donkeys, but as we walked over to meet the owners we were greeted with a very familiar sound…the undeniable Boston accent. “Just pahk ya cah ovah theh honey.” The mother was originally from Haverhill, Mass and her 27 years in Greece have not lessened her accent in the slightest. All three of us agreed that my mom would have loved this woman. At one point she was up there hula dancing while giving us the tour and we could all picture GAS doing that same thing. She was a hoot! With some olive oil in tow, we put our lives back in the hands of my Grecian driving skills and headed to our last stop in Crete.
The Greek financial crisis was most evident in Heraklion. Many of the store fronts were empty and definitely some sketchier neighborhoods, but with an Opa and a direct quote from Bobby McFerrin we were welcomed to our hotel. Nothing like a little “Don’t worry be happy.” as you’re trying to figure out is it safe for me to park the car here. Similar to the other cities, Heraklion did not disappoint in the sunset department. Just before sunset I was able to run for a few miles (don’t worry mom I did my best to
keep to the more popular streets) and then wound up back at an old Fort to meet the girls for what we thought would be a quick bite and sunset watch…we couldn’t escape the bring us the check game here either. While catching the sunset a few younger boys were listening to music up on the rocks and I of course started joking around dancing. I was soon informed by the duo that “Is not how you dance to this music, you dance like this.” Full on demonstration, followed by me giving it a go. There’s video to prove that I would never make it in the rap /music video scene in Crete either. I ended the night in pure bliss. A GTL in one hand and a nutella and banana crepe in the other. I do believe that my cup with my name in Greek from Starbucks might be in the lead for favorite souvenir.
With Leg 2 complete, I’m off to fulfill my dreams of roaming the streets of Santorini like Lena Kaligaris!